Colorado 14ers: Longs Peak via Keyhole Route

LON01

Dist: 12.85 mi	Points: 1154	Calories: none
Time: none	Speed: 0.0 mph	Pace: 0:00 / mi

LON001

Location: 40.272232°, -105.556786°
The alarm beeped at 2:30 a.m. We barely logged 3 hours of sleep thanks to the late campfire talk from nearby campsite #10 and the anticipation that hotwires our nerves before a long day on a big mountain. We slowly mashed our gear into our daypacks, headed to the trailhead, and signed the trailhead register @ 3:15 a.m. Our goal: Summit Longs Peak (14,259 ft.) before noon, before the snow turned to mash potatoes, and before thunderheads charge into the Front Range. Following the narrow beams from our headlamps, we headed W on East Longs Peak Trail.

LON002

Location: 40.275047°, -105.564812°
We stayed on East Longs Peak by veering L @ Y.

LON003

Location: 40.273108°, -105.570674°
On L is Goblin Forest, a primitive campsite (permit required). Ahead, we could hear the rushing waters of Alpine Creek but never saw them in the midnight light. We climbed switchbacks.

LON004

Location: 40.273141°, -105.580244°
Cross two footbridges over Alpine Creek. This is a good spot to top off water bladders, grab an early morning snack, or soak your tired dogs on the return trip. In a short bit, the trail leads above treeline (roughly 10,900 ft.) with the first sweet views of Longs Peak.

LON005

Location: 40.270702°, -105.584278°
Stay left, keeping on East Longs Peak Trail. Dawn brought light winds and the territorial crowing of two ptarmingans, whose snow-white plumes stuck out on the grayish rocks of Mill Moraine.

Sunrise

Location: 40.268590°, -105.585759°
© Kris Wagner

LON006

Location: 40.265708°, -105.592775°
Turn right toward the Boulder Field, but first scope the impressive and memorable East Face--its sheer granite wall rises more than 1,600 feet above Chasm Lake. The next mile traverses around the N ridge of Mount Lady Washington (13,281 ft.), then over the windy Granite Pass.

LON007

Location: 40.274156°, -105.605328°
At Granite Pass, turn left. Climb more switchbacks (a handful of wooden signs ask hikers not to shortcut trail). Big mountain views for miles and miles into Rocky Mountain National Park.

Snow Melt

Location: 40.273616°, -105.608826°
© Jon Dorn

Long View

Location: 40.265069°, -105.613761°
Looking at the N side of Longs Peak from the Boulder Field. © Jon Dorn

LON008

Location: 40.263809°, -105.615156°
Our pace slowed in the expansive, aptly-named Boulder Field. It's a long slog on hardscrabble trail, over boulders and sometimes knee-deep snow. On the right is a solar-powered privy. Jon called the view from inside the house one of the best he's seen (see photos). We also passed 2-foot-high rock walls built by winter campers to shield their tents against the howling winds. In the SW, sits a huge rock notch called the Keyhole, our gateway to the less technical west side of Longs.

Privy

Location: 40.264206°, -105.615288°
You can't beat this view from the privy seat. © Jon Dorn

Privy Backside

Location: 40.264206°, -105.615288°
Longs looms behind the privy. © Jon Dorn

To The Keyhole

Location: 40.261582°, -105.619640°
© Kris Wagner

LON009

Location: 40.260427°, -105.621099°
Just to the E and below the Keyhole is a small stone building, built in memory of Agnes Vaille, a woman climber who perished on Longs in 1925 after a successful winter ascent up the E face. Even in late-May, the inside was stuffed with snow--another clue how wicked winter must be up here. Continue scramble.

LON010

Location: 40.260517°, -105.621239°
We rested @ the Keyhole with super views into Glacier Gorge, a glacier-dozed valley rich with vivid blue alpine lakes. The route here is marked with painted bull's eyes, and any snow or ice turns it into a crampons and ice axe route. Even in late-May, this side of the mountain was still in winter phase. It's a less-technical hiking route usually from July to early-September.

Keyhole

Location: 40.260468°, -105.621099°
Kris rests near the Keyhole. © Jon Dorn

Keyhole View

Location: 40.260583°, -105.621089°
The views from the Keyhole are quite impressive. The first clip overlooks the deep, and mostly snow-covered Glacier Gorge. The second is the long Boulder Field we traversed to reach the Keyhole. © Kris Wagner

LON011

Location: 40.257881°, -105.620799°
We strapped on our crampons here, and traversed along a band of ledges and cracked slabs.

Crampon Time

Location: 40.257889°, -105.620638°
Jon straps on his crampons as two climbers slowly move up the Trough. © Kris Wagner

Ledges

Location: 40.259575°, -105.620926°
Lots of snow on the W side of Longs Peak in May. © Jon Dorn

LON012

Location: 40.255949°, -105.620617°
From here, the route climbs roughly 600-foot up a skinny couloir called The Trough. At 10:30 a.m. this climb was still shady with Styrofoam snow.

The Trough

Location: 40.255957°, -105.620477°
Near the end of a 600-foot ascent in The Trough. Jon though the summit was close, but we had another 400 feet to go with some tricky spots. © Kris Wagner

Chockstone

Location: 40.254483°, -105.618761°
Kris climbs around a chockstone on the upper end of the Trough. © Jon Dorn

LON013

Location: 40.254270°, -105.618374°
The top of this gully ends at a small platform at 13,850 ft. There's still 405 vertical ft. left and the views become more expansive.

Best Hike

Location: 40.254475°, -105.618589°
This route up Longs Peak was named the 8th best National Park hike in America by Backpacker magazine in its August 2006 issue. © Kris Wagner

LON014

Location: 40.254246°, -105.618138°
The route traverses S along more exposed Ledges. In the SE is Sandbeach Lake, a popular destination in Rocky Mountain National Park. See link: http://backpacker.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip.aspx?TripID=8204

LON015

Location: 40.253992°, -105.615778°
The last 200 feet called the Homestretch was slow-going with Everest-like breaths: right step, breathe; left step, breathe. This was the most difficult section of our day-a mixture of snow, ice, and rock with angled, airy slabs above giant sharkfin rocks.

High Above

Location: 40.254000°, -105.615649°
Kris in the final stretch up Longs Peak. Lots of exposure! © Jon Dorn

The Homestretch

Location: 40.254090°, -105.615649°
© Kris Wagner

Below the Summit

Location: 40.254246°, -105.617570°
Yeah, the last stretch is steep, and wee exposed. © Jon Dorn

LON016

Location: 40.254799°, -105.615562°
Longs Peak (14,259 ft.): We shared the large, surprisingly flat summit with one person, and had unrivaled panoramas of hundreds of cloud-scrapping peaks, including Longs' little brother, Mt. Meeker (a wee under the 14er mark @ 13,911 ft.). Hikers without a rope should retrace route back to trailhead. Experts with a rope, go to Waypoint 17 for a quick rappel down the north slope along the old Cables Route. It cuts at least an hour, maybe two, off the descent.

Summit

Location: 40.254802°, -105.615435°
All smiles. We made it to the top, though we only spent a few minutes there (storm clouds were moving in). © Jon Dorn

LON017

Location: 40.257120°, -105.616454°
Until 1973, Longs Peak had a via ferrata, or cable route, on its slabby north face. The cables are long gone but a few of the eyebolts remain and offer perfect rappel anchors. Use the lower bolt (marked by this waypoint) for an easy rap down into the Boulder Field.

Cables Route

Location: 40.257275°, -105.616261°
Jon rappels down the old Cables Route into the Boulder Field. © Kris Wagner

Down Cables

Location: 40.257862°, -105.616196°
Kris rappels down the old Cables Route (North Face). © Jon Dorn

LON018

Location: 40.257283°, -105.616422°
A 60-meter rope strung us past the icy and snowy ledges. From here, it's tramp down either a snowfield or boulder field (in summer). We rejoined the main Keyhole Route near the privy (Waypoint 8) and retraced our route back to the trailhead. We finished at 6 p.m., almost 15 hours after we started.

Quick Rest

Location: 40.269179°, -105.610135°
Its been a long day so far--14 hours. Only a few more to go. Longs stands in the background. © Jon Dorn.

"Special Kind Of Cold"

Location: 40.273223°, -105.579987°
After 15 hours on the trail, Jon soaks his swollen and burning feet in Alpine Brook. Only two more miles to go. © Kris Wagner