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Author:
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Backpacker Magazine
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Activity:
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Backpacking
ActivitySearchBackpacking
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State:
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Arizona (AZ)
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Distance:
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34.34 mi
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Difficulty:
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9 / 10
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Rating:
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 1 rating(s)
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This 34-mile loop packs explores canyons and cliffs, and leads to a 20-foot technical rock climb on day three. Starting at the South Bass trailhead, descend 1.2 miles north to a three-way junction to begin a counterclockwise loop. Go straight on South Bass Trail and drop into Bass Canyon, descending more than 2,000 feet in 2.5 miles between two towering sandstone buttes that pinch the gorge tight. Bear left onto the Tonto Trail and go 1.5 miles to a plateau campsite under the 4,800-foot red walls of Tyndall Dome.
Start day two by 8 a.m. to avoid the midday scorch—it's 11.5 miles to a primo campsite on the Colorado River, the trip's first dependable water source. Follow the Tonto Trail west to the bottom of Copper Canyon, where you might find water in potholes after a rain. The route veers around 4,700-foot Fiske Butte and traces sheer sandstone cliffs above Walthenberg Rapids, which roar through Granite Gorge. After 10 miles, the Tonto Trail ends in Garnet Canyon. Head west on an unmaintained trail dotted with cairns. End at the sandy banks of Toltec Beach, your second camp at mile 17.5.
On day three, leave your pack at camp for a 2.1-mile out-and-back to Elves Chasm, a secluded, waterfall-rich grotto at the mouth of Royal Arch Creek. Backtrack to camp and lay over or finish the day's remaining six miles with a stiff ascent to a roughly 20-foot rock wall and the technical crux of the trip. Pack a harness, 40-foot dynamic rope, locking carabiner, and 20 feet of webbing for belays and for hauling up packs; someone in your party should feel comfortable to lead this climb. From the top of the cliff, the route climbs gradually for 1.7 miles before dropping into Royal Arch Creek. Then, descend the rocky creekbed to Royal Arch, the Grand Canyon's largest natural rock bridge (there's a reliable spring upstream of it). Hike back upstream 3.2 miles to a set of smooth potholes carved into the creekbed, and your last campsite.
The final day ascends past Montezuma, Toltec, and Chemehuevi Points. After 7.3 miles, reconnect with the South Bass Trail and climb 1,200 feet to your starting point.
Editor's Note: You can reverse this route to make the technical 20-foot wall a rappel rather than a climb. But increase your water capacity and expect heavier packs since the two-day, mostly uphill stretch from Toltec Beach to the South Rim has no reliable water sources.
-Mapped and photographed by Elias Butler
MORE: To see a 3D Google Flyover and a slideshow, go to www.backpacker.com/royalarch.
CAUTION: Summer temperatures can soar into the 100s so always carry water (rangers recommend 2 gallons/day), and start early to beat the midday heat. Also, don't forget it is much easier to descend into the canyon than climb back up. Expect to spend at least double the time climbing than descending.
PERMITS: Required backcountry permits are $10, plus $5 per person per day. Download application at nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry-permit.htm; then fax to (928) 638-2125.
MORE INFO: Grand Canyon National Park, (928) 638-7888; nps.gov/grca
TO TRAILHEAD: To reach the South Bass trailhead,
go west from Tusayan six miles on FR 328 (off of AZ 64). Veer northwest onto FR 328A for another 17.6 miles to Pasture Wash Road. Turn right and continue to the parking lot.
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Datum: |
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Royal Arch
| Dist: 34.34 mi |
Points: 1412 |
Calories: none |
| Time: none |
Speed: 0.0 mph |
Pace: 0:00 / mi |
RAL001
Location: 36.183853°, -112.376661°
South Bass trailhead: Good view of Mt. Huethawali; drop off rim on the South Bass Trail
RAL002
Location: 36.192720°, -112.374172°
Go north on South Bass Trail; you'll come back to this junction on the last day.
RAL003
Location: 36.203015°, -112.373639°
Trail descends the Supai Formation
RAL004
Location: 36.216406°, -112.355247°
This is just above the junction of the South Bass Trail and the Tonto Trail. Look for cairns marking the Tonto Trail as it ascends gradually out of Bass Canyon.
RAL005
Location: 36.231639°, -112.348788°
Camp 1: Very good views of the Colorado River, Tyndall Dome, the North Rim, and the Grand Canyon looking up-and-downstream. No water here.
RAL006
Location: 36.227900°, -112.378314°
This is the bottom of Copper Canyon where the Tonto Trail crosses it. You might find water in potholes here after a rain.
RAL007
Location: 36.232920°, -112.413955°
Good view above Walthenburg Rapids and the Colorado River. The Tonto Trail skirts the edge of a cliff formed by Tapeats Sandstone, making for excellent views.
RAL008
Location: 36.225841°, -112.416573°
Cross an unnamed side canyon where scummy pothole water might be found.
RAL009
Location: 36.214346°, -112.421036°
This is where the Tonto Trail officially ends at Garnet Canyon. The trail descends to the bed of Garnet. Look for a footpath to continue heading west below the Tapeats Sandstone. This path is marked by rock cairns and begins to slowly descend along a talus slope toward the Colorado River.
RAL010
Location: 36.200720°, -112.432065°
This is Toltec Beach, the first good water (at the Colorado River) since leaving the South Bass trailhead. Good camping on sandy flat spots. Hikers should leave their packs here and then head downstream toward Elves Chasm (the mouth of Royal Arch Creek), then return the same way.
RAL011
Location: 36.197603°, -112.450647°
This is the mouth of Royal Arch Creek, and the entrance to the grotto named Elves Chasm. To get to this spot, hikers must head west along a cairned path from Toltec Beach that follows the talus slope above the Colorado. It is a rough path and will take 1.5 hours to cover due to the up-and-down nature or catch a ride with passing boaters.
RAL012
Location: 36.196966°, -112.436206°
This is the 20-foot cliff that must climbed (or rappelled if coming down here). To reach this spot, leave Toltec Beach and ascend the sandy trail that begins immediately to the south. This trail ascends steeply toward the prominent travertine cliff above the Colorado River and leads to the climbing spot. Sometimes a knotted rope is already in place but don't count on it. Pack your own rope, harness, and anchors.
RAL013
Location: 36.190121°, -112.453258°
This is where the route begins to head toward Royal Arch Creek, and away from Grand Canyon.
RAL014
Location: 36.183992°, -112.451162°
This is the steep route that allows access into Royal Arch Creek from the Tonto platform.
RAL015
Location: 36.191300°, -112.453802°
This is Royal Arch, the largest natural bridge in Grand Canyon. Great camping and good water, a special place for those who love beauty and stillness.
RAL016
Location: 36.188979°, -112.455068°
This is the best water to be had on the entire loop.
RAL017
Location: 36.164672°, -112.443932°
Great last night camp. Reliable water in potholes and nice views.
First Camp
Location: 36.231553°, -112.348509°
Tyndall Dome and the Orion constellation loom above the campsite.
Royal Arch Video (click to view)
Location: 36.184165°, -112.377434°
First Camp
Location: 36.231639°, -112.348616°
South Bass Trail
Location: 36.183818°, -112.376189°
© Elias Butler
Tonto Trail
Location: 36.231656°, -112.356191°
Hiking west on the Tonto Trail near Tyndall Dome © Elias Butler
Rapids
Location: 36.232920°, -112.413526°
A good view of Walthenburg Rapids and the Colorado River. © Elias Butler
Camp 2
Location: 36.200772°, -112.431786°
Toltec Beach is the first good water (at the Colorado River) since leaving the South Bass trailhead. © Elias Butler
Elves Chasm
Location: 36.197586°, -112.450508°
Boaters and hikers swim in a pool below the waterfall.
Elves Chasm
Location: 36.197577°, -112.450411°
Crux
Location: 36.196945°, -112.435949°
This is the 20-foot cliff that must be climbed (or rappelled, if descending to the Colorado River). © Elias Butler
Royal Arch
Location: 36.191291°, -112.453716°
The largest natural rock bridge in Grand Canyon National Park
Royal Arch
Location: 36.191075°, -112.453823°
Pothole
Location: 36.164696°, -112.443566°
One of several pot holes that contained water during a prolonged dry spell. © Elias Butler
