Superstition Wilderness: Weaver's Needle Climb

This classic summit requires a classic hike for the approach.  Start at the Peralta trailhead and hike 2.2 miles and up 1,400' vertical to Fremont Saddle.  On the way you'll pass some fine hoodoo rock formations making this a very scenic hike.

Bring a 200' dynamic rope, 30' webbing, helmet, harness, rappel device, and 4 cams or stoppers for lead protection.  From Fremont Saddle you'll see the imposing Weaver's Needle spire rising vertically out of the desert floor.

Follow the trail off the North side of the saddle for another 2 miles until you are directly opposite the notch between the Northern larger peak and the Southern peak.  Hike East across the immediate wash and find a slight trail working it's way up the steep slope approaching the notch in the Needle.  Near the rock based you'll contour left around a rock formation and then begin ascending the steep rock.  Parts of this are probably class 4 but the footing is good.

You'll reach a small flat spot at the base of a cliff that will allow you to put on your harness (and rock climbing shoes are highly recommended too for the lead climber at least).  Climb up the cliff and belay the others in your party if required.  100' Further up the shoot is a pipe in solid rock that makes a good anchor for the belay.  Once up this section the "real" class 5 climbing begins.  There is a bolt just above the pipe anchor that is perfect for the first point of protection.  Your target for this pitch in the Chokestone blocking the 'V' of the notch between the North and South peaks.  There is a hole under the chokstone that goes at 5.0 or you can challenge yourself and go right of the chokestone at 5.2 or left at 5.4.   There are numerous nice handholds on the way up and some good cracks for cams or stopper protection.  You'll probably require 3 cams and 4 quickdraws to safely do this part of the climb.  Many people have free climbed it too.  At the choke stone you can set up an anchor to belay the rest in your party up the second pitch.

Once up the second pitch you'll climb an obvious 12' vertical wall and scamble up numberous small class 3/4 climbs to the top of the spire!  Sign the log in the ammo box - YOU'VE DONE IT!

You can either climb down freestyle (which is exposed but not too hard) or use numerous boulders for anchors to rappel down variuos sections.  Once back at the top of the pitch two chokestone I would suggest a long rappel to speed your descent.  There is a chain anchor on the backside of the chokestone that's perfectly positioned for the rap.

A 200' rope will ALMOST get you down the toughest part of the pitch.  I had a 10' downclimb when I hit the end of the rope (knot the end for safety so you don't rap off!).  From there you can wrap the rope around the vertical pipe and rap down to the shelf where you put your harness on.  Now it's a scramble down the steep slope and about 5 miles to the trailhead.